Single-breasted
One row of buttons. The most versatile jacket, right for work and for occasions.
Style guide
Every detail of a bespoke suit is your choice. These are the main decisions for the jacket and the trousers. Your tailor will go through each one with you at the fitting.
Jacket
Style
Double-breasted
Overlapping fronts with two rows of buttons. A stronger, more formal look, cut with peak lapels.
Tuxedo
For black tie. Satin lapels, a single button and jetted pockets.
Lapel
Notch
The standard lapel on a single-breasted suit. Right for any occasion.
Peak
The tip points up toward the shoulder. Sharper and more formal, and it makes the chest look broader.
Shawl
One continuous curve with no notch. Worn on tuxedos and dinner jackets.
Cut
The cut sets the shoulder, the waist and how the jacket sits on you.
House cut
The Songsmai pattern. Your tailor will show you how it sits on you at the fitting.
Neapolitan
A soft, unpadded shoulder and light construction. Relaxed, and comfortable in the heat.
English cut
A structured shoulder, a firm chest and a shaped waist. Formal and sharp.
Pockets
Flap
The standard suit pocket. Works for business and everyday wear.
Jetted
A narrow slit with no flap. The cleanest and most formal, and standard on a tuxedo.
Patch
Sewn onto the outside of the jacket. Casual, and best on sport jackets and linen.
Ticket pocket
A small extra pocket above the hip pocket. A traditional English detail.
Vents
Shown from the back.
No vent
A closed back. The cleanest line, and traditional on a tuxedo.
Single vent
One slit at the centre back. Simple and easy to move in.
Double vent
A slit on each side. The jacket stays flat when you sit or put your hands in your pockets.
Trousers
Fit
How much room the leg has from thigh to hem.
Wide leg
Full from hip to hem. Comfortable, and it drapes well in heavier cloth.
Straight leg
The same width from knee to hem. Classic and balanced.
Tailored
Room in the thigh, narrowing gently to the hem. A clean shape for business.
Slim
Close through the thigh and narrow at the hem. The sharpest line.
Pleats
Flat front
No pleats. A clean, flat line across the front.
Single pleat
One fold on each side. More room at the hip, and it sits better when you are seated.
Double pleat
Two folds on each side. The fullest cut and the most traditional.
Hem
Cuffs
A turned-up hem. It adds weight so the leg hangs straight, and it pairs well with pleats.
No cuffs
A plain hem. A longer, cleaner line, and the choice for formal wear.
Waistband
Belt loops
Worn with a belt. The everyday standard.
Side tabs
A buckle on each side adjusts the waist. No belt, so the line stays clean under a jacket.
Not sure which to choose? Your tailor will recommend what suits your build and the occasion.